Bigger On the Inside

Let me admit that this part of the build was the most vexing for me because what I wanted, in version 1.0, was for all the bits which ought to light up to actually light up.  That dream got smashed by what turns out to be the real lack of space in this scale for the model, but my hopes for a real light-up version with real TARDIS noises are going to get worked into version 2.0 if and when we finally get there.  For you, you'll have to settle for a merely-pretty replica in version 1.0 which, sadly, will not serve as a night light or as a beacon when you;re running away from the Silence or the Cybermen or whatever.

The first warning label I want to put on this as we go forward, however, is this: mind the instructions regarding your specific parts and pieces I made in this post about accurate measurements.  My dimensions in this step are accurate for my drawing, but they will not be accurate for your model because the thickness of your materials will be different than mine.  Measure twice, cut and assembly once, and you will be much happier and less frustrated.

OK: to start the process for building the marquee where the sign "POLICE (public call) BOX" resides on all 4 sides, we have to build a base for the upper structure.  Some models I have seen build this header into the side panels, but I found that the easiest way to install a working door was to get this header piece out of the construction of the main side panels.  My technique also gives you a flat plane by which to level the marquees as we ass them to each side.

At any rate, the first step is to construct this:

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I have used some odd coloring in the diagram so you can see all the parts and pieces clearly.  The basic piece you have to cut is a panel roughly 90mm x 25mm (mind the measurements), and you will cut 8 of them so that you will install 2 pieces sandwiched together on each side.  The thickness add strength, but ultimately: it adds thickness, and part of the process here is to try to add as much thickness as we can without having to build too many boxy layers up to the roofline.  If you are especially clever and careful, you can simply glue the corners with super glue.  If you need to add corner braces (as I did in my 1.0 prototype), add then to the BOTTOM of your corners, not the top -- you want to be able to slide the roof assembly (which we will build next time) into this assembly without gluing it closed.

Next, on each side you want to add a "backer board" which runs behind each marquee.  The purpose of this part (mind the measurements) is to give the marquee something to attach to and keep from sagging or warping over time.

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Next, to make the actual marquee, you will need the decal for the marquee.  For my prototype, I used an office label maker that uses 12mm white tape.  The benefit of this was that I therefore had ready-made stickers for the marquees, and it made assembly very easy.

However, I think one basic improvement for this project is a more-faithful marquee, to so help you with that I have mocked up a decal for the marquee which is in 600 DPI format and prints out very clearly on any modern printer:

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My advice is to print the decal on very bright-white paper, laminate it with archive-quality tape or self-adhesive lamination.  Then cut the two wafers for each of the 4 marquees your model will require, as below.

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Before attaching the decal to the marquue back panel, PRIME AND PAINT THE MAT BOARD PARTS.  Allow them to dry, then attach the decal to the back panel with clear Tesa tape.  I had the best success attaching the front panel by applying Tesa tape to the back side, trimming the part out of the center opening, and then peeling off the backer and sticking it to the back panel.

At that point, simply mount the marquee to the side panels with an eye to centering the signs on each side.

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Next Time: we assemble the roof.