Well, you have seen 2 videos of the Tardis 2.0 built, but I haven;t given any updated drawings. Obviously, all your dimensions will change as the body gets wider, but you can guess your way through once you know the sidewall dimensions.
Here is that updated drawing for the sidewalls:
I'll add more updated drawings as we move through the build, but the general principles of the updated model are the same as the 1.0 model.
Greetings - welcome back. I have finished the model version 2.0, and here's a teaser preview of it:
It's not as cool as the new 50th anniversary teaser from BBC, but it should be enough for you to come back and check out the updated build instructions as I get them edited and put here for your reference. This version is painted balsa, and has a lot going on on the inside.
Stay Tuned.
It’s not the time that matters, it’s the person
Monday, September 9, 2013
Tag :
Other People's Models
As I am working on the 2.0 version of the TARDIS, I ran across this video. This TARDIS is actually bigger on the inside, but: this is an application of Blender, Unity and iOS apps which, frankly, is way over my head and way over the heads for the normal person reading this blog.
However: it is actually very cool.
Yes: welcome back -- most of you are looking at the finished product for Model 1.0 and saying, " um, that's nice, but it's only barely a proper Blue Box."
For example, it doesn't have a beacon light on top -- that's a pretty major flaw as far as I'm concerned. It also doesn't make any noises, and nothing lights up. And if I may be so bold toward my own project: It's not entirely solid-looking. The way we assembled the "POLICE BOX" marquee is serviceable, but rather weak -- if you look at it closely you can see it's never going to light up, and it in fact is not as boxy as one might hope.
Well, I'll say it: it is version 1.0. It's perfectly good for sitting it on a bookshelf, or on your window sill. It looks about as good as the versions Amy Pond has strewn about her desk -- maybe a bit better.
But: we're not little Amelia Pond. We're Doctor Who fans, and that means we're probably more than a little bit nerdy and weird. We want what we want. So this post is the last post in Model version 1.0 posts, and in a few weeks I'll have some new posts up which talk about improvements to version 1.0 which are buildable and probably don't require any wires or batteries -- we'll call that version 1.5. After that, we'll break out the wires and the solder and the flashlights we bought for $1 at the Dollar Store (and other stuff) and build model version 2.0 which drives toward the full monte.
Enjoy!
Oh: in the meantime, leave some comments here so I know you;re not just passing through. tell me about your experiences building this model, and you suggestions for improving it.
So we have something that looks really good right now, but it lets the rain in -- is doesn't have that fancy angled roof we build installed.
The roof assembly is fairly simple. Consider this diagram:
Note that the colors I used here are to make each piece stand out, and that after you assemble this part you should prime and paint it to the correct shade of TARDIS blue. There are measurements in this assembly drawing which are correct for the virtual model, but keep in mind the standing warning I have already given about your real-world project. Mind the measurements. Measure to your real model and real materials to get an accurate and well-formed final assembly.
When you collapse the pieces to make one piece of them, you'll get something like this:
What you should note is that this assembly inserts loosely into the main body assembly you already have. The top section should stick upward about 10mm from the lower asection, and the lower section should be thick enough to consume some of the space you will have in the crown of the mail body, but it will still have about 1mm gap to allow the top to easily come off -- for reasons we will discuss in the future.
Before you insert the roof assembly into the main body, you'll have to build a small ledge inside the crown of the main assembly. The "ledge" is really just 4 small corner shelves sunk in the crown of the main body at 15mm, like this:
This is to support the roof, but to leave the body open and accessible. This may seem sort of unnecessary since the 1.0 version of this model has no internal "stuff" (lights, wires, batteries, etc.), but this also allows us to build this model with the opportunity to upgrade it with bells and whistles (well: TARDIS noises and lights anyway) after we have completed the rather-generic basic build.
When you have built the support shelves, the roof inserts like this:
Finally, cut a square of material from the foam core board in the Bill of Materials to 10mm, prime and paint it, and attach it to the base of your model's main body. I used hot glue for this, but be careful with hot glue. If you apply hot glue in the corner where your door hinge is, you'll most certainly ruin your door's ability to open. Apply the hot glue to the bottom of your model like this to get the best hold, and also to avoid any interference for the hinge:
And finally, attach the self-adhesive furniture feet from the Bill of Materials to the underside of the base.
Your 1.0, no-frills model is complete!
The roof assembly is fairly simple. Consider this diagram:
CLICK TO ENLARGE |
Note that the colors I used here are to make each piece stand out, and that after you assemble this part you should prime and paint it to the correct shade of TARDIS blue. There are measurements in this assembly drawing which are correct for the virtual model, but keep in mind the standing warning I have already given about your real-world project. Mind the measurements. Measure to your real model and real materials to get an accurate and well-formed final assembly.
When you collapse the pieces to make one piece of them, you'll get something like this:
CLICK TO ENLARGE |
What you should note is that this assembly inserts loosely into the main body assembly you already have. The top section should stick upward about 10mm from the lower asection, and the lower section should be thick enough to consume some of the space you will have in the crown of the mail body, but it will still have about 1mm gap to allow the top to easily come off -- for reasons we will discuss in the future.
Before you insert the roof assembly into the main body, you'll have to build a small ledge inside the crown of the main assembly. The "ledge" is really just 4 small corner shelves sunk in the crown of the main body at 15mm, like this:
CLICK TO ENLARGE |
This is to support the roof, but to leave the body open and accessible. This may seem sort of unnecessary since the 1.0 version of this model has no internal "stuff" (lights, wires, batteries, etc.), but this also allows us to build this model with the opportunity to upgrade it with bells and whistles (well: TARDIS noises and lights anyway) after we have completed the rather-generic basic build.
When you have built the support shelves, the roof inserts like this:
CLICK TO ENLARGE |
And finally, attach the self-adhesive furniture feet from the Bill of Materials to the underside of the base.
Your 1.0, no-frills model is complete!